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NAVARRA. Great value for money

Amaya Cervera

THE TODOVINO SELECTION

Príncipe de Viana 2004, cask-fermented white chardonnay. Displays the typical ripe fruit flavour characteristic of this grape, with a citric touch that adds zest. Pleasant smokiness and a hint of vanilla in both the aroma and the palate, and a pleasant acidity that encourages a repeat tasting. Excellent value for money.
 
El Chaparral de Vega Sindoa 2001, red. One of the first wines in the D.O. to recover the local granache stock and with it all the hallmark signs of the Navarra soil that come through from their more than 60 year old vines. Very ripe fruit, liquorice, scrubland and a mineral character. A red wine with personality.
 
Javier Asensio Cuvée Especial 1999, red. After aging for 15 months in casks, the successful combination of merlot (75%) and cabarnet sauvignon produces a limited amount of this modern red wine that stands out for its complexity and elegance. The key lies in the careful selection of grapes and the quality of the new wood.
 
Palacio de Otazu Reserva 1999, red. A Navarra red with a Bordeaux influence from the northernmost red-wine producing vineyards in Spain. An excellent aromatic dimension to the finish thanks to the elegance and fine balance of its components. A different, pleasantly surprising view of this D.O.
 
Gran Feudo Viñas Viejas Reserva 1998, red.. A fine mix of tradition (local varieties such as tempranillo and grenache) and modernity (French oak and a touch of merlot), this wine has all the character and complexity you would expect from its aged vines. A sweet, pleasant vintage at an excellent price.
 

Navarra, for many years eclipsed by the output of neighbouring Rioja, has taken a long time to move away from its image as a producer of insignificant rosés to build a reputation for excellently-priced, international-class reds. But the story of Navarra wine doesn’t end there: the D.O. produces dependable white chardonnays and sweet, fragrant muscats as well, and some serious attempts have also been made to recover old grenache stock. The varied climate suits a whole range of styles and ensures that Navarra has plenty to offer.

From the cool vineyards of Otazu, home to the northernmost red wines in Spain, to the warm landscapes of the Ribera Baja in the south of the province near the border with Aragon, the diversity of vines in the region is one of the key contributors to the success of this D.O., which also attracts a considerable number of tourists.

In Navarra, you can follow the traces of the Camino de Santiago, the pilgrims’ route closely linked to wine and wine production, which is dotted with beautiful Romanesque churches, monasteries and mediaeval villages like Olite; you can enjoy first-class cooking based on high-quality local produce (asparagus, artichokes and vegetables of all sorts, together with some well-prepared cuts of meat); and you can yield to the temptation to visit Pamplona for the running of the bulls during the Sanfermines, without a doubt one of the most famous festivals in the world.

If you can’t make it there yourself, you can always bring a few of the flavours of this region to your table instead, in the shape of some clean, well-produced wines at very reasonable prices. Navarra wine has a relatively recent history, however; with the exception of a few privately owned wineries that boast a long tradition (chief among them Chivite), Navarra was one of the places where the co-operative movement made greatest inroads. In practice, this has typically meant wines of average quality that are sold by the litre.

Today’s wines coming out of Navarra are the fruits of the revolution that has taken place in Spanish wine production over the last 20 years. Rosé is the region’s most successful style: fresh, clean and fruity wines based mainly on the local grenache grape, which even now remains the most common grape to be found in the D.O.

The most interesting wines currently produced in Navarra, however, are made using tempranillo, cabernet or merlot, either individually or in a range of effective combinations. Other highlights include white chardonnays, sweet muscats and, lately, some interesting grenache reds, produced in an effort to recover part of the region’s heritage in the form of old vine stock that is being brought back to life using the latest oenological concepts.

A distinction can also be made between the “Atlantic style” wines with a notable Bordeaux influence that are produced in the cooler areas in the north of the D.O. (an interesting place for creating great reds that are suitable for laying down) and the warmer, more Mediterranean style of the wines from the south. Between the two, we can find a range of honest, pleasant labels that offer good value for money and have an international style whose fruity character tends to stand out over the wood.

IN A NUTSHELL:

Vineyards: 17,335 hectares
Wineries: 88
White grapes: chardonnay, white grenache, malvasia, moscatel de grano menudo, viura.
Red grapes: cabernet sauvignon, red grenache, graciano, mazuelo, merlot, tempranillo
 

WINERIES OF NOTE:

Asensio Viñedos y Bodegas. A small, family-owned winery founded in 1994 that has turned out to be a real discovery in the region. Excellent, international-class wines at very interesting prices, with the exception of the more exclusive Brojal. One of the new stars of Navarra wine.

Bodegas Julián Chivite. This winery, the greatest family-owned winery in the D.O., has a long history and has played a major role in the renaissance of wine production in Navarra. Their latest project, the Señorío de Arínzano estate, features a winery designed by the architect Rafael Moneo, and is intended to be in complete harmony with its environment. Chivite produces one of the finest sweet wines (Colección 125 Vendimia Tardía) and one of the finest whites (Colección 125 Chardonnay) in Spain. Each wine in the Chivite range, of which Gran Feudo Viñas Viejas is one of the highlights, provides excellent value for money.

Bodegas Marco Real. Part of a larger family-owned group (La Navarra) and founded in 1988, their wines have improved considerably over the last few years thanks to a judicious mix of foreign and local varieties. Their hallmark: dependable, easy to drink reds at reasonable prices.

Bodegas Príncipe de Viana. Situated in the Ribera Baja, this winery, which was founded in 1983, has completely rebuilt its facilities over the last few years and now produces contemporary wines, of which the crianza reds and a good-value cask-fermented chardonnay are among the highlights. They manage no fewer than 1,500 hectares of vineyards.

Bodegas Viña Magaña. The personal project of Juan Magaña, this company played a key role in bringing about Navarra’s decisive commitment to foreign grapes and the production of monovarietal wines. Alongside their already classic labels sold under the Viña Magaña name, over the last two years the company has also launched the more modern, more expensive and rarer Torcas and Calchetas.

Ochoa Viñedos y Bodegas. The owner of this winery, Javier Ochoa, was one of the strongest supporters of the development of Navarra wine in the 80s and 90s. His small winery led the way in producing red wines in the region and they have constantly improved and adapted their production processes over the years.

Bodegas y Viñedos Artazu. A fascinating project led by Juan Carlos López de Lacalle (from the Rioja winery Artadi) that focuses on recovering old grenache stock. They carry out an exhaustive selection process from their own 15 hectare vineyard, where the vines are more than fifty years old on average, and produce a limited output.

Bodegas y Viñedos Nekeas. A forward-looking company founded in 1992 following the union of several families, they made a firm commitment from the outset to producing good value wines and selling them abroad. A fine example of the current state of Navarra wine, they produce a wide range of dependable wines.

Bodegas Otazu. This company, a project born out of a true love of wine, owns an impressive 350 hectare estate, where 110 hectares are set aside as vineyards and which features an imposing winery. Good whites and reds based on chardonnay, tempranillo, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Atlantic-style wines with a Bordeaux influence are produced here in the northernmost red wine vineyards in Spain.

Castillo de Monjardín. With one of the most beautiful estates in the region and 135 hectares of vineyards, the family that owns this winery has made a name for itself through some excellent work with chardonnay grapes, producing both young whites and cask-aged crianzas, as well as good value for money reds.

Bodegas y Viñedos Alzania. This young, family-owned winery, founded as recently as 1999, has perfected the combination of local and foreign grapes. They produce one of the most dependable crianzas in the D.O. and a rare vintage that is very interesting but somewhat over-priced.

 

Publishing date: February 28, 2005

 

 

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